Artificial grass looks and feels right only when the ground beneath it is built right. This guide walks you through infill selection, base preparation, drainage design and the finishing details that separate a professional installation from a shortcut job. Whether you are converting a shaded patch that bermuda will not hold, building a pet turf area, or preparing a pool surround, the principles are the same: proper drainage, stable base, correct infill weight and professional seaming and edging.
This reference is written for homeowners and property managers in Atlanta and the surrounding areas who want to understand what goes into the ground and why it matters. You will know what to ask for in writing, how to spot corners cut by installers, and when drainage or grading problems need to be solved before turf can go down at all.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the loose material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves four critical functions: it props the synthetic fibres upright so they look and feel natural, protects the turf backing from ultraviolet light and heat, adds weight to keep the turf from shifting, and helps water drain through the system. The choice of infill depends on your use, your budget and your maintenance preferences.
Silica sand is the most common and least expensive infill. It is a natural mineral that works well for most residential yards and is easy to top up over time. Coated sand consists of silica grains rounded and often coloured to match the turf fibre; it is gentler on bare feet and on pet paws than sharp silica, and it does not compact as easily. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes odors, making it popular for pet turf and dog runs. It is more expensive than silica but lasts longer and requires less frequent raking. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, add a polymer or mineral coating to sand to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in heat. These are premium options and are worth considering if odor or heat is a concern in your yard.
Crumb rubber (recycled tire rubber) is used on sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption is the priority, but it is not recommended for residential yards. Rubber retains heat, can stain feet and clothing, and requires different maintenance. For playground and school turf, engineered infill systems designed for impact are specified instead.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill weight is specified in pounds per square foot, and it is one of the most common places where installers cut corners. A typical residential turf product needs between 1.5 and 2.5 pounds of infill per square foot to perform correctly. Pet turf and high-traffic areas may require 2.0 to 3.0 pounds per square foot. The exact amount depends on the pile height, face weight and backing of the specific turf product you choose.
Why does infill weight matter? Too little infill leaves the fibres floppy and unsupported, making the turf look thin and worn. It also allows the backing to be exposed to direct sunlight, which breaks down the material and shortens the turf's life. Underinfilled turf also drains poorly because the fibres do not stay open, and in pet areas, urine can pool rather than drain through. An uncompacted or shifting base will make the problem worse. When you get a quote, ask the installer to put the infill amount in writing as part of the specification. If they cannot or will not, that is a sign they are not planning to do the job right.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers under the turf are as important as the turf itself. The process starts with removal: the existing lawn, sod, roots and debris must be cleared and hauled away. If old artificial turf is being replaced, it is removed entirely. Once the ground is bare, the area is excavated to the depth needed for the base layer, typically three to four inches on most residential lots. The grade is set so that water runs away from the house, any pool, and the turf perimeter, preventing puddles and odors.
On bare soil, a weed barrier fabric is laid to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf. The base layer of decomposed granite or crushed base rock is then spread and compacted in lifts (thin layers compacted one at a time) using a plate compactor. This creates a firm, stable platform that will not settle or shift over time. For pet areas, patios or play areas, an optional draining underlay or pad is installed over the base. This adds cushioning, improves drainage in areas prone to puddling, and extends the life of the turf by reducing wear on the backing.
On hard surfaces such as concrete, pavers or balconies, the turf is never glued flat to the surface. Instead, a draining underlay or pad is installed first, and edge drainage is built in so water can run off rather than pooling beneath the turf. This prevents rot, odor and failure of the seams and backing.
Base Prep on Atlanta Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Atlanta's Piedmont soils are dense red clay mixed with caliche, a hard mineral layer that sheds water rather than absorbing it. This means that a properly prepared base is not optional; it is the foundation of every installation. A base that is not excavated, graded and compacted will lead to dips, puddles, standing water and persistent odor, especially in pet areas and after summer thunderstorms. These problems can appear weeks or months after installation, when the base settles unevenly under the weight of the turf and infill.
The correct approach is to excavate the area to remove topsoil and organic matter, which will decay and cause settling. The exposed ground is then graded with a slight fall away from the house and pool to direct water to the perimeter and beyond. A plate compactor is run over the area in multiple passes to compress the native soil. Then three to four inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock is spread in lifts and compacted firmly with each lift. This creates a stable platform that will not shift. The compaction step is critical: an uncompacted base will settle over time, creating low spots where water pools and odor develops. This is especially true in pet areas, where urine will collect in any depression.
If a yard has a genuine water problem (standing water after rain, a high water table, or poor site drainage), the base preparation alone will not fix it. In those cases, drainage must be addressed first, either by regrading the entire yard, installing a French drain or perimeter drain system, or in some cases, by declining the project. We will assess the site and tell you honestly if turf can work or if the water problem needs to be solved by other means first.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf drains water through the backing and down through the base. The turf backing is either perforated (small holes punched through the material) or fully permeable (woven or knitted to allow water through every part). Drainage rate is measured in gallons per hour per square foot. A typical residential turf drains 4 to 6 gallons per hour per square foot; sports turf and pet turf are often specified at 8 to 10 gallons per hour or higher to handle heavy use and quick drying.
However, drainage rate on paper does not guarantee drainage in the yard. A turf with fast drainage will still fail if the base beneath it does not drain. If the base is clay, compacted soil or an old concrete pad, water will back up under the turf no matter how permeable the backing is. This is why base preparation and grading are done first. On sloped sites, the turf and base work together to shed water quickly. On flat or low-lying sites, the base must be thick enough and well-compacted enough to move water away from the turf and to the perimeter.
For pet turf, patios and hard surfaces, a draining underlay or pad is installed between the base and the turf. This layer is typically made of recycled rubber or plastic foam with a perforated or permeable face. It improves drainage, adds a slight cushion underfoot, and protects the turf backing from direct contact with a hard or damp base. On balconies and rooftops, edge drainage is critical so water does not pool at the perimeter or drip down the side of the building.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a quick job are visible in the seams, edges and finish. Seams are joined by laying seam tape along the joint, applying a polyurethane adhesive to both the tape and the turf backing, and pressing the pieces together with the grain direction aligned. The seam is then rolled or pressed to ensure good contact and allowed to cure. A visible seam line, a gap between pieces, or edges that lift or curl are all signs of poor workmanship. A well-executed seam should be nearly invisible when the turf is brushed and infilled.
Edges are secured with galvanized nails or staples driven through the perimeter of the turf into the base, typically spaced 6 to 12 inches apart depending on the product and site conditions. On patios and around pavers, the turf is cut tight to the edge and finished with bender board (flexible edging) or a metal trim that is secured to the base and holds the turf in place. On pool surrounds, the turf is cut to meet the coping or deck cleanly with no overhang or gap. Rough or ragged edges, lifted corners or turf that pulls away from the perimeter all indicate poor installation technique.
After seaming and edging, the entire surface is power broomed (brushed with a mechanical broom) to stand the fibres upright and distribute the infill evenly. This step makes the turf look full, natural and finished. It also ensures that infill is spread uniformly so that no areas are under-infilled or over-infilled. A turf that is not power broomed will look flat and thin and will not perform as well.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before work begins, you should receive a written specification that covers every material and step. This spec protects you and holds the installer accountable. It should include the following: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon), face weight in ounces per square yard, pile height in millimeters, backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, infill type and pounds per square foot, base depth and material (decomposed granite, crushed rock, or other), compaction method and standard, weed barrier (yes or no), seam method and adhesive type, edging material and method, cleanup and haul-off of debris, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation). For pet turf, patios, sports turf or other specialized applications, the spec should also note any special underlays, drainage systems or treatments.
A spec sheet is your proof that the installer knows what they are doing and that they will not cut corners. If an installer gives you a price but no spec, or a vague spec with missing details, walk away. An installer who is fully insured and professional will be happy to provide a detailed spec before you commit. Visit our pricing page for guidance on cost ranges and what to expect, and contact us for a free estimate and on-site measurement. We will walk through the spec with you step by step and answer any questions before the work begins.